Day 2: India beckons

The day started early. Earlier than it needed to because The G was champing at the bit. Our flight to New Delhi was at 1005 but we were up before 0600 because the car was coming at 0730 and it would take us at least 90 minutes to get ready. Although the day started early it does not mean that it was packed with adventure and excitement but it was not without its moments.

We had a fine luncheon on the plane.
There was paneer makhani and dal palak.

We were upgraded which was a good thing. Somehow I knew this was going to happen; I could feel it (as they say) in my waters. This was A Good Thing; The G had flown business class but once before so it was a matter of great excitement for her. But we seasoned travellers take this in our stride. Actually, that’s not true – neither that seasoned travellers take it in their stride nor the implication that I am a seasoned traveller. Maybe I used to be a seasoned traveller but I had already remarked to The G that I would not be doing the back of the bus next time (if, indeed, there is a next time) we do ta big trip. I will pay the big bucks and sit with the nobs.

The flight between Dubai and New Delhi was only slated at 3 hours and 10 minutes. In the event because of an unexpectedly handsome tail wind we took only 2 and a half hours. So you could argue that the upgrade was hardly worth it.

The landing approach seemed to be the longest I have experienced. We flew for miles over what I suppose was Delhi: there seemed to be acres and acres of high-rise buildings that stretched forever in all directions. This city seems to be seriously big. Yet when I look at the source of all truth I find that the population of Delhi is about 10,000,000 and of New Delhi 300,000.

Now, I am about to display my complete ignorance of matters geographic. New Delhi is the capital and seat of government of India. For some reason I thought it was Madras or Mumbai. Even that would have been wrong because it was, in fact, Calcutta that was the capital until 1911. New Delhi is a small part of the National Capital Territory of Delhi. The Lonely Planet Guide gives us a rapid overview of Delhi’s history.

 I read that India’s capital is a vibrant tapestry of historical relics,
cultural display, satellite neighbourhoods and mega malls.
The impressive Humayun’s Tomb offers a glimpse into
the city’s ancient past, while scenic marketplaces
provide an authentic feel of the busy metropolis.
Who wrote this marketing bullshit for http://www.orangenews9.com?

It says that Delhi has played a pivotal part in Indian history because it has always been a gateway city. It is built on the plains by the Yamuna River and on the route between western and central Asia and Southeast Asia. It may be the site of the fabled city of Indraprastha, which featured in the Mahabharata over 3,000 years ago, but historical evidence suggests that the area has been settled for around 2,500 years.

At least eight cities have been founded around modern Delhi, the last of which was the British Raj’s New Delhi. The first four cities of Delhi were to the south, around the area where the Qutb Minar now stands. The fifth Delhi, Firozabad, was at Firoz Shah Kotla in present-day New Delhi, while Emperor Sher Shah created the sixth at Purana Qila, also in New Delhi. The Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, constructed the seventh Delhi in the 17^th century, thus shifting the Mughal capital from Agra to Delhi; his Shahjahanabad roughly corresponds to Old Delhi today and is largely preserved. The Chauhans seized control in the 12^th century and made Delhi the most significant Hindu centre in northern India. But when Qutb-ud-din occupied the city in 1193, he ushered in more than six centuries of Islamic rule. In 1803, the British captured Delhi and promptly installed a British administrator.

That’s it for today’s history lesson. I realise when I read this that I do really know bugger all. I mean, what was Indraprastha and what was Mahabharata (which is recognised by Microsoft’s spell checker)? I’ll be looking them up, Gentle Reader, but don’t worry I will not bore you with the fruits of my labours.

There was a man to meet us at the airport and we set off into the Delhi traffic with great expectations of excitement. It was a bit like driving in Jakarta or Vientiane; the steering wheel is an optional extra, the really important thing is the horn. I recall this from my time in Jakarta but I forgotten the complete lack of what we would call, I suppose, lane discipline. There are white lines marked on the road but these seem not to be related with the good order and conduct of the traffic. Rather one would think that they were signs left by visiting aliens. If you wish to change lane here I think you simply blow your horn and go for it. And if you leave any passing tuk-tuks or pedestrians lying helpless in your wake, well, that is just the way the cookie crumbles.

An Indian letter box. The G remarked that this
"looked like the ones in London". I have no idea where
she got this notion from.

There was little of interest to be seen on the way to the hotel. Just lots of people waiting (our driver told us in what, for him, passed as English) for buses. We saw one of these buses. It was like the ones you see in the movies. This one had broken down so far as we could tell – at least I can think of no reason why you would stop a bus in one of the middle lanes of a four-lane highway. There were people milling around this bereft vehicle and I think everyone of them was speaking into a mobile phone.

The hotel boasts an old-school
register. Wonderful!

There's an atrium area with
millions of Buddha's on the wall.

We found our hotel which is called the Visaya and quite satisfactory. Perhaps it is not up to Dubai standards but it is nonetheless satisfactory. It has wifi which is a good start. We took a walk down the road which was a risky venture. We walked past what I imagine were the houses and apartments of the wealthier residents of this great city. Many had small guardhouses outside that were surrounded by guards all of whom were talking in to mobile phones. What could they be saying?

We’re still jet-lagged – especially me – so we dined in the hotel. I had something called curd rice which I had never heard of so had to try it. Succulent is not the word to describe this confection; the appropriate superlative has not been thought of yet. I think that you would take some oil and add some mustard seeds (and salt of course). Then you would add the rice and simmer it very slowly in yoghurt. There was some sort of dried leaf added for flavour. Very nice. Had it with Dahl Makhani – also good. But they could not sell beer in the restaurant which was a shame as I was set on a bottle of Kingfisher or some other Indian beer.

So I buggered off to bed in a huff.

My number 2 son will enjoy this picture of a New Delhi scooter.